Fish Tank Size Calculator

Calculate the perfect tank size for your aquarium and ensure a healthy environment for your fish

Calculator Mode

Default Mode is perfect for beginners who want a quick estimate of their tank's stocking level.

Shape
Units
Dimensions
cm
Decor & Substrate Density
Total Volume 0 Liters
Usable Volume 0 Liters90% usable
L | 0 cm
H | 0 cm
W | 0 cm

Default Mode: Fish Groups

Aquarium Analysis

Usable Tank Volume
0 L
Estimated Volume Needed
0 L
Tank Load:

🫧 Very Low - Plenty of space left! Add more fish if you like.

0%

Very Light

Minimal bioload 🫧 Just 10–15% water change weekly keeps your tank fresh and stress-free.

Fish Tank Size & Stocking Calculator: Smart, Science-Based & Beginner-Friendly

Planning your aquarium is half the hobby. Whether you’re setting up a heated 20-liter betta tank or mapping a lush, planted community, the question is always the same: “How many fish can I keep—safely?”

This guide explains how the Fish Tank Size & Stocking Calculator works, why it beats old one-line rules, and how to use it to keep your fish healthy and your water crystal clear.

Why This Calculator Exists (and what it fixes)

Overstocking is the #1 beginner mistake. Too many fish = too much waste, leading to ammonia and nitrite spikes, stress, disease, and algae. Traditional shortcuts like “1 inch per gallon” (or 1 cm per liter) ignore important realities:

  • A 5 cm neon tetra and a 5 cm fancy goldfish produce very different bioloads.
  • Body shape and activity matter (slender schoolers vs. deep-bodied or messy species).
  • Tank shape (surface area), plants, and filtration change how much life a tank can support.

The calculator builds a plan around actual volume, species behavior, waste output, and your maintenance habits—so you stock smart from day one. Even welfare orgs that publish length-based guides stress they’re only rough guides; real capacity depends on filtration, husbandry, and fish species.

  • RSPCA
  • aquariumscience.org

What the Calculator Considers

Tank Volume & Shape

Rectangles and cylinders calculate differently; then we reduce to usable volume (subtracting 10–25% for substrate, wood/rock, and internal gear).

Species & Size (Beginner Mode vs. Expert Mode)

  • Beginner Mode: choose by size class for quick, safe estimates.
  • Expert Mode: pick from 200+ species with bioload factors and schooling requirements baked in.

Bioload & Filtration

The tool estimates total bioload (a proxy for waste), compares it to usable volume, and maps it to a Tank Load Tier (Very Light → Overstocked). You’ll see water-change advice and filter turnover tips matched to the tier.

Behavior & Compatibility

Schooling needs, territorial space, temperature range, and temperament are flagged so you avoid stressful mixes.

How the Math Works (Under the Hood)

Volume

  • Rectangle: L × W × H
  • Cylinder: π × r² × H
  • Usable volume = display volume – décor displacement (your chosen %).
  • Conversions: 1 US gal = 3.785 L, 1 Imp gal = 4.546 L.

Beginner-Mode Stocking (safe starting heuristic)

Totals length for small, slender fish only and applies a conservative cm/L (or in/gal) guide.

Important: this heuristic is not valid for deep-bodied or high-waste species (e.g., goldfish, many cichlids). That mirrors welfare guidance: length rules = rough guide only, not a law. The UI warns when it doesn’t apply.

  • RSPCA

Expert-Mode Stocking

  • Species Bioload = quantity × average adult size × bioload factor.
  • Sum across species → Total Bioload Index; compare to usable volume for your Load %.

Tank Load Tiers (example mapping)

  • Very Light: ≤ 40% — forgiving; beginner-friendly
  • Light: 41–60% — stable with routine maintenance
  • Moderate: 61–80% — watch feeding; plants/filtration help
  • Heavy: 81–100% — experienced keepers; strict maintenance
  • Overstocked: > 100% — not recommended; reduce stock or upgrade

Why this beats “1 cm per liter”: Metabolic waste scales with mass, not length; mass rises faster than length. Bioload factors correct for that. (Even experienced hobby references critique the inch-per-gallon rule for this reason.)

  • aquariumscience.org

The Science You’re Managing (one minute)

Nitrogen Cycle

Fish and food create ammonia (NH₃/NH₄⁺). Beneficial bacteria convert it to nitrite (NO₂⁻), then to nitrate (NO₃⁻). In aquarium biofilters, Nitrosomonas (AOB) and Nitrospira (NOB) are the main players; recent studies also find comammox Nitrospira (capable of oxidizing ammonia all the way to nitrate) commonly present in freshwater aquaria.

  • ASM Journals
  • PMC

Filtration & Turnover

Manufacturer flow ratings are optimistic. A practical baseline is at least ~4× turnover per hour; aim for ~4–6× in planted/community tanks and ~6–10× for messy species (goldfish, many cichlids) or high-flow hillstream setups.

  • LiveAquaria
  • Practical Fishkeeping

Plants Help

Fast-growing aquatic plants preferentially take up ammonium (NH₄⁺) and can materially reduce nitrogenous waste when actively growing. This stabilizes water and provides cover—but it’s not a license to overstock.

  • ScienceDirect
  • Diana Walstad's Books and Articles

Surface Area & Gas Exchange

Long, shallow tanks have more air–water interface than tall, narrow ones, improving oxygenation—especially with a gentle ripple or trickling/stripping action.

  • Eurofish
  • web.utk.edu

Species Notes that Change Everything

  • Goldfish (fancy/comet): High bioload, constant grazing, big O₂ demand. Think volume + strong filtration first. Welfare guidance sets an absolute minimum around 50 L for a single goldfish (with appropriate dimensions). In practice, many keepers find ~75–95 L or more gives a more stable margin for a single fancy goldfish—then plan up from there as it grows. RSPCA Knowledgebase
  • Bettas (Betta splendens): Labyrinth breathers still need heated, filtered water. A ~20 L (≈ 5 US gal) practical minimum has solid backing in welfare and veterinary guidance; use a gentle-flow filter and a heater. RSPCA Knowledgebase; Veterinary Medicine at Illinois
  • Schooling Tetras/Rasboras: Keep 6–10+ of each species; small bodies, moderate bioload; thrive in planted setups.
  • Livebearers (guppies, platies): Fast breeders—plan for population growth or stick to single-sex groups.
  • Dwarf Cichlids (Apistogramma, Rams): Territory matters. Provide footprint, caves, and line-of-sight breaks.
  • Rift Cichlids/Mbuna: Often stocked more densely to spread aggression, but this demands heavy filtration and strict maintenance—not a beginner path unless following a proven recipe.
  • Catfish & Plecos: Many species outgrow small tanks and are heavy waste producers. Research adult size; bristlenose plecos are often the sensible choice.

Water Changes & Maintenance by Load Tier (starting guidance)

  • Very Light: 20–25% every 2 weeks; gentle feeding; prune plants.
  • Light: 25–30% weekly; light gravel-vac.
  • Moderate: 30–40% weekly; clean prefilter sponges; monitor nitrate.
  • Heavy: 40–60% weekly (or split twice weekly); rinse media in tank water, not tap (chlorine/chloramine harm biofilter bacteria). RSPCA Knowledgebase
  • Overstocked: Reduce stock, upgrade filtration, or increase change frequency—now.

Example Walk-Throughs

  1. 1) 75 L planted community (rectangle), usable 65 L
    Stock: 10 ember tetras (2 cm), 8 chili rasboras (2 cm), 6 pygmy corys (3 cm), 1 nerite.
    Result: Light → Moderate load. Weekly 25–30% changes, ~4–6× turnover, floating plants for extra polish.
  2. 2) 90 L “goldfish starter,” usable 75 L
    Stock: 1 juvenile fancy goldfish.
    Result: Moderate now; will trend Heavy as it grows. Plan a larger tank or strong external filter; 40–50% weekly changes.
  3. 3) 20 L heated betta tank, usable 17 L
    Stock: 1 male betta, 5 shrimp, 3–4 snails.
    Result: Very Light → Light with plants. Weekly 25–30% changes; baffle filter outflow.

Compatibility & Schooling—Don’t Skip This

  • Schooling requirement: Many “nano” fish need 6–10+ of their own species to feel safe and show natural behavior.
  • Temperament: Fin-nippers (some barbs, serpae tetras) can harass long-finned fish.
  • Temperature & water: Keep species within a shared range; mixing cool-water danios with warm-water bettas stresses both.
  • Territory: Provide hardscape and plants to break sightlines and reduce aggression.

Quick Glossary

  • Bioload: Waste burden (ammonia, dissolved organics) a fish produces.
  • Usable Volume: Free water after subtracting décor/substrate displacement.
  • Tank Load: Calculated strain on filtration/maintenance capacity.
  • Turnover: Filter output per hour relative to tank volume (×/hr).
  • Cycle/Cycling: Establishing beneficial bacteria before fully stocking.
  • Quarantine: Isolating new fish 2–4 weeks prevents disease outbreaks.

FAQs

Is the 1 inch per gallon (1 cm per liter) rule true?

Treat it as a rough starter for small, slender fish only. Real capacity depends on mass/bioload, filtration, oxygenation, and husbandry. The calculator’s bioload factors are more realistic.

  • RSPCA
  • aquariumscience.org
Do live plants let me keep more fish?

They stabilize water and absorb nitrogen (especially ammonium) when actively growing—but they don’t excuse overstocking.

  • ScienceDirect
  • Diana Walstad's Books and Articles
How much filter flow do I need?

Use at least ~4× turnover as a baseline; ~4–6× for planted/community tanks; ~6–10× for messy species or hillstream/river setups that prefer brisk current.

  • LiveAquaria
  • Practical Fishkeeping
How fast can I add fish?

After cycling, add in small batches, testing ammonia/nitrite. Spikes mean slow down.

What’s a good minimum for a betta?

~20 L (≈ 5 US gal) with a heater and gentle filtration.

  • RSPCA Knowledgebase
  • Veterinary Medicine at Illinois
How should I clean my filter?

Rinse media in tank water, not under the tap, to protect biofilter bacteria from chlorine/chloramine.

  • RSPCA Knowledgebase

Safety & Ethics Disclaimer

This tool offers evidence-based guidance, but real tanks vary with feeding, filtration, aquascape, and husbandry. Always research individual species, buy responsibly, quarantine new arrivals, and err on the side of under-stocking and over-filtering. Healthy fish are active, eating well, and living in clear, stable water.

Bottom line

Plan with the calculator, stock slowly, test your water, and enjoy a thriving tank. 🐟💧

Sources & useful reads

  • Nitrogen cycle in home aquaria: Dominance of Nitrosomonas/Nitrospira and presence of comammox Nitrospira in freshwater aquarium biofilters. — ASM Journals; PMC
  • Length-based rules are only rough guides: RSPCA guidance; critique of inch-per-gallon heuristics. — RSPCA; aquariumscience.org
  • Filter turnover bands: Baseline ~4× and when to go higher; high-flow hillstream guidance. — LiveAquaria; Practical Fishkeeping
  • Plants & ammonium uptake: Research review + Walstad article. — ScienceDirect; Diana Walstad's Books and Articles
  • Surface area & gas exchange: Aeration/stripping and maximizing interface. — Eurofish; web.utk.edu
  • Betta care minimums: RSPCA Knowledgebase; University of Illinois Vet Med. — RSPCA Knowledgebase; Veterinary Medicine at Illinois
  • Goldfish minimums: RSPCA Knowledgebase (minimum ~50 L; bigger is better). — RSPCA Knowledgebase